Pet Scent Spray Removal

Pet Scent Spray Removal & Urine Contamination

Both male and female cats and dogs will "mark" walls, floors, furniture and clothing with their scenting sprays. This is a means of marking their territory against trespass by other animals and humans or simply establishing their dominance over other animals in the house or apartment. Hormonal spray is mixed with urine and ejected from the same area of the animal. It has a very heavy musk odor which is very different and often much stronger that urine. Hormonal spray areas are often difficult to find for several reasons. First, the affected areas are usually very small, consisting of what looks like a slightly yellow stain running down the wall and behind the shoe strip. Second, affected areas on furniture and carpet are much harder to find because the stain is not easy to see.

If the affected area cannot be easily spotted, the most effective way to find the area is to completely air out the room and sniff around until you find the specific area(s) that needs treatment. Another method that is sometimes effective requires a darkened room (preferably at night) and a 12 or 24 inch black fluorescent light (long wave UV only). Illuminate the walls and floor at close range (8 to 15 inches). The areas will sometimes, but not always, light up yellow or light green depending on the presence of fluorescent material in the animal’s food and scent spray.

Preparing the affected area before applying OdorXit is very important to successfully eliminating the odor. Washing walls with a good spray-on cleaner (or TSP or Spic N Span) and using a plastic dish scrubber (or brush) then rinsing with a wet sponge (or rag) will remove most of the surface material but will not remove the contamination that has soaked into the wallboard, paneling or grout. This also reduces the amount of material that OdorXit must neutralize. Because scent sprays are so much stronger than normal odors, one application of cleaner and OdorXit may not completely eliminate the odor. Scent markings are usually small. Therefore, large quantities of even high concentration OdorXit are not normally necessary. Again, OdorXit must be allowed to soak into the effected area for it to work. If the spray is on the wall, apply OdorXit to the entire area, wetting the wall, the baseboard, and the area of the floor adjacent to the wall.

If the spray is on a piece of furniture or carpet, have the area professionally cleaned before applying OdorXit. If the cleaning person will cooperate, add an ounce of OdorXit to his cleaning solution. It really helps!

OdorXit concentration for this application should be 1 to 1.5 ounces per 15 ounces of water, starting with the weaker solution.

DO NOT USE ODORXIT CONCENTRATE UNDILUTED OR WITH LESS THAN 10 OUNCES OF WATER PER OUNCE OF ODORXIT CONCENTRATE.

Many people believe that if a little will work well, a lot will work better. In the case of OdorXit this is conditionally true, at least for scent spray odor control. The down side is that the OdorXit smell often lingers for many days. Spraying unscented ammonia diluted at least 1 part of ammonia to 4 parts of water on an area that is retaining the OdorXit smell will help a lot. Again, more is not better!
Dog Urine Contamination
When you consider that a 30 pound dog can expel 1/2 cup of urine per incident, and one incident is rarely the case, the amount of diluted OdorXit needed could be 1/2 to 1 gallon for an area 2 feet in diameter. Unfortunately, dogs nearly always use the center of the room or a doorway. This makes accessing the padding more difficult. But remember that the OdorXit solution must come in direct contact with the odor producing sources in the carpet and flooring even after you remove the padding. Leaving the padding in place and treating just the carpet will often reduce the odor to a manageable level but will almost never eliminate all of the odor. Further, if the padding is wet (like it is most of the time) it will stay wet for at least weeks, and sometimes months, damaging both carpeting and flooring.

Cat Urine Contamination
When cats have contaminated a carpet, it is often along the wall and in the corners. This being the case, the carpet, padding and flooring are not the only elements involved. As an example, when wall-to-wall carpeting is involved, there is a wooden tack strip that is nailed to the floor and has tacks sticking up to hold the carpet in place. Urine will stain the wood and rust the tacks. The urine stains the bottom of the tack strip as well. Replace the contaminated tack strip with a new one or let your carpet installer do it for you.

Another area that can be involved is the 2 by 4 that lays along the bottom of the wall. Urine will seep along the flooring or sub-flooring and under this piece of wood. Whenever the humidity goes up, it will smell bad! Again, the OdorXit solution must go wherever the urine went in order to stop the odor.
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