Ordering OdorXit Products and Pricing

OdorXit is a highly concentrated liquid. When diluted with water, a 16-ounce bottle will make up to 4 gallons of solution appropriate for nearly all applications. A 16-ounce bottle will eliminate the organic odors in 1000 sq ft of wood or concrete floors. It also works on walls, fabric, carpet, and skin. OdorXit concentrate is available in 3 convenient sizes:
A 4-ounce bottle of OdorXit Blue is $9.95 plus $3 shipping and handling. (Makes up to 1 gallon of OdorXit solution at $13.00 per gallon of including the shipping and handling cost).
A 16-ounce bottle of OdorXit is $39.95 plus $6 shipping and handling. (Makes up to 4 gallons including the shipping and handling cost).
A 64-ounce bottle of OdorXit is $149.95 plus $12 shipping and handling. (Makes up to 16 gallons of OdorXit solution $10.15 per gallon including the shipping and handling cost).
An 8-ounce bottle of OdorXit Magic including a mist sprayer is $9.95 plus $4 shipping and handling.
OdorXit is 100% guaranteed to perform as advertised on our web site and stated in the guarantee section below. We stand behind OdorXit and have helped thousands of users eliminate some very nasty odors. Do not hesitate to call us with questions or problems. Let Us Help You Too!
Call 1-877-ODORXIT for special pricing on larger quantities.
If you reside outside of the United States of America and are concerned about shipping and customs etc., there are a growing number of countries with which we have had experience. Check our web site for the most current information at: www.odorxit.com/Foreign.htm
Ohio residents will be charged 6.0% sales tax.
We accept payment via Visa, MasterCard, Discover, American Express, money orders and personal/company checks.  Orders received after 3:00 PM EST/EDT will be sent out the next business day.

OdorXit's Guarantee

Because of recent misuse of our generous 100% Money back Guarantee; we have been forced into being just a bit more specific about what is an acceptable claim for refund.

OdorXit is 100% Money Back Guaranteed to perform as advertised on the OdorXit.com web site and in this document. In addition to our generous guarantee, we offer free consulting on any odor problem including the ones specifically excluded or not addressed on the web site or in this document. Just call 1-877-ODORXIT (1-877-636-7948). We will either answer your call or return your call within 48 hours.

There are several exclusions that we have specified for a long time now, including fire smoke, tobacco smoke, wet dog smell, urine in carpet padding and extreme contamination cases on wood and wall materials. We are now adding another.

If you are having a problem solving your odor problem with OdorXit and want your money refunded you must first:

1. Call our toll free help line (not email) before you have used up all of your product. Our odor elimination experts will work with you to make any changes needed in your application technique to help you to be successful.
2. You must attempt to follow the instructions offered.

OdorXit really works on organic odors!  To make OdorXit work for you, there are simple specific events described in detail on our web site and in this document accompanying the product that must occur in order to ensure your success, and we want you to be successful. However, expecting to completely eliminate urine odor from carpeting without removing the involved padding and treating the involved flooring will not work, and does not qualify for a refund. Sorry, doing half the job is not acceptable.

f you are still not successful after these 2 simple steps, we will promptly refund your money.

We know that OdorXit works, we use it ourselves. We have helped thousands of users eliminate some very nasty odors with OdorXit. Through this help effort, and our personal use of the product, the application techniques presented here have been developed to the point that most users get the desired results without further help. However, there are and will continue to be special cases and variations that need special treatment. We at OdorXit want to help you solve these problem cases successfully so that we can expand our knowledge and understanding of the problems our customers are facing and refine the application techniques needed.

Your cooperation in this matter is critical to making everyone who needs to eliminate organic odors successful, including you.

If you have any questions or concerns about our Guarantee policy call our toll free help line with your questions. 1-877-ODORXIT (1-877-636-7948).

OdorXit Concentrate Usage

OdorXit Concentrate diluted with water can be safely applied directly to carpeting, flooring, walls, furniture, bathroom tile, cabinetry, concrete, fabric, leather and many other materials and  surfaces to eliminate odors. See the Taxidermy section for even more uses. It can also be used in combination with carpet cleaning and laundry detergents (excluding chlorine and oxygen bleaches) for one step cleaning and deodorizing of carpet and fabric. Normally, OdorXit solution is sprayed on with either a trigger sprayer or a 1/2 to 2 gallon yard or deck sprayer (See Applying OdorXit). It can also be applied as a solution of OdorXit and water or in combination with carpet shampoo in a carpet-cleaning machine for large carpeted areas or a washing machine for fabric and rugs small enough to fit into the machine. OdorXit is fully compatible with detergents and germicides. It works well at any temperature from 0 to 130 F. OdorXit eliminates odors that remain and continue to emerge after application of a germicide.

OdorXit Magic Usage

Odorxit is your odor eliminator product that works to remove odors quickly. Odorxit works to eliminate pet odors, is a urine odor remover, mold odor remover, and most hard to fight odors. Because OdorXit Magic absorbs and neutralizes the gasses we perceive as odors, it does not have to be applied directly to the source of the odor. It simply needs to be in the area where the gasses are being generated or on the air filter in your furnace. OdorXit Magic is very easy to use, fast acting and long lasting. It is not a permanent solution to eliminating odors. Occasional re-application will extend the absorption and neutralization of odors indefinitely.

OdorXit Blue Usage

OdorXit Blue uses a gas absorption process to trap and destroy the relative limited group of odors produced by portable toilet holding tanks found on boats, RVs, airplane, trains and etc. Add a small amount of OdorXit to your holding tank and the gasses (odors) produced by the tank's contents are absorbed and neutralized for up to 3 months or until the tank is emptied.

Safety

All OdorXit products are exceptionally safe. They are nontoxic, non-irritating, non-flammable, non-carcinogenic, non-staining and are biodegradable. When treating urine, give off no unpleasant and possibly harmful ammonia gas. Conforms to the RIFM and IFRA guidelines. They are not a primary skin irritant, nor toxic by oral ingestion or by inhalation. In concentrated form, OdorXit Concentrate may be a minor irritant when in direct contact with the eyes but is non-irritating when diluted according to directions. In concentrated form, avoid open flame. If exposed to concentrate, eyes should be flushed with water.

Chemistry

OdorXit Concentrate, Magic and Blue use no bactericide, enzyme, oxidizer, olfactory desensitizer or masking scents. When OdorXit Concentrate comes in direct contact with organic odor causing agents it neutralizes the agent.

OdorXit Concentrate uses a complex and proprietary mixture of water-soluble organic salts and oils to create a unique 3 part contact chemistry:

• Counteraction. It pairs with many odors to neutralize the odor.
• Absorption. Physically absorbs many odor causing substances and converts them into other byproducts that have no odor.
• Bonding. Physically binds to many odor-causing substances changing them forever into non odor producing byproducts.

OdorXit Magic and OdorXit Blue both use only an absorption process like that mentioned above.

OdorXit CLO2

gas and the gas dissolved in water is an oxidizer that actually kills mold, spores, bacteria and viruses using an oxidization process without making them more resistant to treatment. It also oxidizes tobacco, cooking and fire smoke and its residue. The fast release version of the gas product produces enough CLO2 gas to be potentially dangerous to breath but is not dangerous to plants, paint, furniture, electronics, etc. The slow release version of the product when used in the appropriately sized area, does not produce enough CLO2 gas to be harmfully but is very effective on all the agents mentioned above. It just takes longer for the process to finish.

Concentrate

Intended Users

Pet owners, rental property owners and managers, house renovators, professional carpet cleaners and installers, appliance re-sellers, homeowners, taxidermists, fishermen and anyone with organic odors to eliminate should be using OdorXit products to eliminate their odor problems.

OdorXit Magic Application Notes

OdorXit Magic uses a new, fast and very effective approach to solving odor problems. Malodors are gasses that react with the membrane in our noses to produce an unpleasant experience; it therefore stands to reason that if a product can absorb or alter the gasses causing the unwanted odor, the odor will be neutralized.

That is exactly what OdorXit Magic does. When sprayed on an odor source or simply into the area containing unpleasant odors, OdorXit Magic absorbs or alters the gas so that we do not smell or perceive it to be a malodor.
OdorXit Magic absorbs a very wide range of malodors including tobacco smoke, mold, mildew, spoiled food, fish, animal scent spray (including cat and skunk), animal and human excrement, diaper pail, bed pan, sick room, and cooking. OdorXit Magic also absorbs many chemical odors including but not limited to ammonia, hydrogen sulfide, methyl mercaptan, trimethylamine and others.

Like all absorption-based products, OdorXit Magic can absorb a finite amount of odor causing gas at which time it must be re-applied to eliminate additional odor causing gas. This fact does not detract from the fact that OdorXit Magic is long lasting and completely effective on a very broad range of malodors.

OdorXit Magic is simple to use. Lightly spray OdorXit Magic into the affected area or directly onto the odor source.
For treating large areas like bathrooms, showers, kitchens and other areas with tile or cement floors, add 4 or 5 ounces of OdorXit Magic to the mop bucket of detergent or rinse water and mop it on and allow it to dry. It can also be applied to furnace air filters.

Do not spray directly on animals or humans. Do not eat or drink OdorXit Magic. Keep this and all odor control products out of reach of children

OdorXit Magic is available as a liquid "ready to use" product
OdorXit Magic contains only water-soluble plant extracts and derivatives

Using OdorXit Blue Application Notes

OdorXit Blue is designed specifically to eliminate the odors produced in portable toilet holding tanks. It is a fast, inexpensive and very effective. Because holding tank malodors are gasses that are produced not only by the liquid contents of the tank, but also the dried material on the inside of the tank, hoses and vent pipes, treating these odor producing products with anything but a gas absorbing product, is very difficult if possible at all.

OdorXit Blue completely absorbs a limited range of malodors produced in holding tanks by adding just 2 ounces of OdorXit Blue (just 1/2 the 4 ounce bottle) to a normal sized tank. It will start working immediately and work for up to 3 months or until the tank is emptied.

Just pour 2 ounces in your toilet, add 1 or 2 quarts of water and flush the toilet. That's all there is to it!
Like all absorption-based products, OdorXit Blue can absorb a finite amount of odor causing gas at which time it must be replenished to eliminate additional odor causing gas. This fact does not detract from the fact that OdorXit Blue is long lasting and completely effective on holding tank malodors.

Do not spray directly on animals or humans. Do not eat or drink OdorXit Blue. Keep this and all odor control products out of reach of children

OdorXit Blue is available as a liquid "ready to use" product
OdorXit Blue contains only water-soluble plant extracts and derivatives

Application notes for OdorXit Concentrate

OdorXit Concentrate is the most effective organic odor destroyer available at any price, but if it is not applied properly, even OdorXit will not eliminate your odor problem. We have made every effort to include information in this document is to help you use OdorXit in a safe and cost-effective way.

OdorXit Concentrate is a "Contact Chemistry" product. That means it only works when it comes in direct contact with an odor's source(s). Therefore, when using it you must make certain that you use enough to penetrate to the imbedded sources. OdorXit must remain in liquid form long enough to wick into the same places the urine found to hide. This can be under carpet tack strips, between drywall and baseboards, between the joint cracks in hardwood flooring, between toe strip and baseboards, between floorboards and wall nailer boards. Your advantage in this process is that you don't have to make OdorXit soak through the carpet and padding first like the offending animal (person) did.
OdorXit Concentrate MUST be diluted with water for it to work. Water is part of the reaction!

For information on special applications and solutions to extraordinary applications read our Tidbits section on the web often. It is updated on a semi-regular basis when we have new information or approaches to solving really tough problems.

As effective as OdorXit is, it can not and will not eliminate all odors. Check The Odors OdorXit Can't Eliminate for the current list.

Urine Odors

Eliminating pet urine from any porous material can be a challenge. The problem, beyond getting to where the urine ran while it was still liquid, is that as urine dries and decomposes it goes through several transformations. The first stage produces an ammonia like gas and urea salt. The second stage occurs when the urea salt is exposed to water (or water vapor) and materials containing hydrogen and sulfur, (dust mite bodies, dirt, etc.) and produces mercaptan gas (the same basic stuff they put in propane and natural gas to alert you to a gas leak). OdorXit works on both stages to permanently block the production of the undesirable gasses provided the OdorXit comes in contact with the offending materials.

The real challenge comes when the urine has soaked into wood flooring, or run in between the boards of a hardwood floor, or run under the wall, or any place else it can soak, wick, or run. Additionally, liquid urine has a very low surface tension, which helps it soak into porous materials and cracks quickly and deeply. OdorXit diluted with water 1 to 30 will penetrate to the same areas as the urine in most cases, but remember that the urine has had an extended period of time to get to where it is hiding. In cases where very deep penetration has occurred into carpet, flooring or concrete, OdorXit can be mixed with carpet cleaning products containing surfactants to accelerate OdorXit's penetration.

Unlike other odor control products OdorXit is not affected by detergents or other cleaning products except for chlorine and oxygen bleach. Bleach will neutralize OdorXit. Being unaffected by detergents makes OdorXit very effective at neutralizing urine odor after other methods have been tried and failed. Normally, removing the residue from other odor control products is not necessary for OdorXit to be successful, but there are always extreme cases (especially with carpet) where so much has been used that it may be necessary to remove as much of the residue as possible before using OdorXit.
If wood or concrete flooring has been painted, re-finished, and or sealed in an attempt to seal in an odor, OdorXit, which is a liquid, will not be able to get into the areas where the gas is being produced by the urine byproducts. Removing the "seal" will allow OdorXit to get below the paint, finish, or sealer. Some OdorXit users have been successful treating hardwood flooring that have been painted and/or sealed by drilling small holes between the boards and injecting OdorXit solution into the floor in places so that OdorXit can get between and under the contaminated boards where the urea salts are hiding. Unfortunately, this method is not applicable to plywood, OSB or concrete.

Pet Spray

Both male and female cats and dogs will "mark" walls, floors, furniture and clothing with their scenting sprays. This is a means of marking their territory against trespass by other animals and humans or simply establishing their dominance over other animals in the house or apartment. Hormonal spray is mixed with urine and ejected from the same area of the animal. It has a very heavy musk odor which is very different and often much stronger that urine. Hormonal spray areas are often difficult to find for several reasons. First, the affected areas are usually very small, consisting of what looks like a slightly yellow stain running down the wall and behind the shoe strip. Second, affected areas on furniture and carpet are much harder to find because the stain is not easy to see.

If the affected area cannot be easily spotted, the most effective way to find the area is to completely air out the room and sniff around until you find the specific area(s) that needs treatment. Another method that is sometimes effective requires a darkened room (preferably at night) and a 12 or 24 inch black fluorescent light (long wave UV only). Illuminate the walls and floor at close range (8 to 15 inches). The areas will sometimes, but not always, light up yellow or light green depending on the presence of fluorescent material in the animal’s food and scent spray.

Preparing the affected area before applying OdorXit is very important to successfully eliminating the odor. Washing walls with a good spray-on cleaner (or TSP or Spic N Span) and using a plastic dish scrubber (or brush) then rinsing with a wet sponge (or rag) will remove most of the surface material but will not remove the contamination that has soaked into the wallboard, paneling or grout. This also reduces the amount of material that OdorXit must neutralize. Because scent sprays are so much stronger than normal odors, one application of cleaner and OdorXit may not completely eliminate the odor. Scent markings are usually small. Therefore, large quantities of even high concentration OdorXit are not normally necessary. Again, OdorXit must be allowed to soak into the effected area for it to work. If the spray is on the wall, apply OdorXit to the entire area, wetting the wall, the baseboard, and the area of the floor adjacent to the wall.

If the spray is on a piece of furniture or carpet, have the area professionally cleaned before applying OdorXit. If the cleaning person will cooperate, add an ounce of OdorXit to his cleaning solution. It really helps!

OdorXit concentration for this application should be 1 to 1.5 ounces per 15 ounces of water, starting with the weaker solution.

DO NOT USE ODORXIT CONCENTRATE UNDILUTED OR WITH LESS THAN 10 OUNCES OF WATER PER OUNCE OF ODORXIT CONCENTRATE.

Many people believe that if a little will work well, a lot will work better. In the case of OdorXit this is conditionally true, at least for scent spray odor control. The down side is that the OdorXit smell often lingers for many days. Spraying unscented ammonia diluted at least 1 part of ammonia to 4 parts of water on an area that is retaining the OdorXit smell will help a lot. Again, more is not better!

Skunk Smell

Skunks can spray your dog or cat from up to 10 feet away and leave them reeking for weeks! Removing skunk spray odor from a dog is normally a labor intensive task requiring bathing, tomato juice, and/or a mixture of hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, and detergent. The bathing part is pretty normal, but the tomato juice is hard to get out of their fur and hydrogen peroxide and harsh detergents will bleach a dog or cat’s coat and burn their eyes, ears and sensitive mucus membranes.

To remove that awful smell quickly and safely, simply mix 4 ounces of OdorXit Concentrate with one gallon of warm water. Bathe your pet as you would normally using a vet approved mild soap and then rinse your pet with lukewarm warm water.

Next apply the OdorXit solution to your pet’s fur and leave it on your pet for about 5 minutes. Use a wash cloth dipped in the OdorXit Concentrate solution to apply OdorXit to your pet’s face and ears. Using a downward motion, start at the pet’s forehead and move downward over the eyes when applying solution to your pet’s face to avoid getting product in your pet’s eyes. Do not place product directly into pet’s inner ear either. After waiting approximately 5 minutes, rinse your with lukewarm water. Towel your pet dry as best you can and allow them to finish drying naturally. Once dry, your pet should smell wonderfully once again!

Removing Skunk Smell from Automobile (Inside and Out),  If you've recently been unfortunate enough to run over a skunk or a skunk has found its way into your garage, you probably need to treat both the inside and the outside of your vehicle to get rid of the stench. Start by treating the wheels and undercarriage of the vehicle. If you're lucky, stopping the smell there will also knock out any skunk smell inside the vehicle without you having to treat the carpeting and upholstery.

To treat the outside of the car, spray the undercarriage of the vehicle with a yard or deck sprayer containing 4 ounces of OdorXit Concentrate mixed with 1 gallon of water. Be sure to cover the entire undercarriage, wheels and lower paint. In order to do this effectively, you'll probably have to lie on the ground and spray the car from underneath it. Allow the mixture to air dry and you're finished. Viola! No more skunk smell here! Running a car or truck through an automatic car wash will make the odor elimination a bit easier. Tractors and Motor Cycles are much easier because they give you easy access to the underbody (save the full faring race bikes).

To treat the interior of your vehicle, simply mix 1 ounce of OdorXit Concentrate with 20 ounces of water in a small handheld spray bottle. Spray the vehicle's carpeting and upholstery evenly and allow to air dry slowly. This may need to be repeated depending on how intensely the skunk odor permeated the vehicle.

Removing Skunk Odor from Carpet  Skunk odor on carpeting may be very smelly but it is almost always a superficial or surface contamination of the carpet (unless the skunk actually sprayed the carpet). Odors carried in on shoes and pet paws are easily removed by spraying only the contaminated spots on the floor.

Mix 1 ounce of OdorXit Concentrate with 20 ounces of water in a spray bottle. Give each spot on the carpet a couple of good spays and allow it to air dry. It is not necessary to saturate the rug because the contamination is just on the surface of the carpet. Flooding the area may cause the odor producing material to be carried deeper into the carpet fibers and saturate the carpet padding.

Carpet that has been sprayed directly by a skunk may not be recoverable due to the construction of carpet, especially if it has had time to soak in.

Machine Washable Fabric and Clothing  If you were unlucky enough to have been sprayed by a skunk or just had your recently sprayed dog rub against you, OdorXit Concentrate will work on your clothes as well as your skin.

Removing skunk odor from machine washable fabric requires adding 3 or 4 caps full of OdorXit® Concentrate to the washing machine at the beginning of the wash cycle with the normal amount of laundry detergent. Allow the wash cycle to complete but delay the first spin cycle for 30 to 60 minutes (Most top loading washers will run to the end of the first wash cycle with the lid open and then stop before the spin cycle starts). Front load washers and the new "ultra safe" top load machines are a bit more difficult; consult your user’s manual for the proper procedure. After the wash/soak time, close the lid or restart the machine and let the machine finish its normal cycles. In some cases, it may be necessary to run the final rinse twice.

Leather  If you were wearing leathers when you hit the skunk on your motorcycle, leave the bike for later and start right away on your leathers. At the very first opportunity after the encounter, hose your self off, rinse in creek water, or any fresh water you can find. The more of the skunk spray you can remove before it dries the less you will have to neutralize later.

After rinsing yourself off, do the bike. Again, the more you can rinse off, the less you have to neutralize later.
When you get to your OdorXit, spray everything down with a mixture of 1 ounce OdorXit and 30 ounces of water. The odor will disappear!

Dry Clean Only Fabric and Clothing

Delicate dresses, blouses, shirts and wool suits should have the contaminated areas sprayed with OdorXit® Concentrate diluted 1 ounce concentrate with 30 ounces of water. Allow the OdorXit® to dry over night. If the odor returns re-treat with the OdorXit® Concentrate. When the odor is completely eliminated dry clean and press. The odor will not return.

Furniture with Fabric Upholstery  Skunk odor on furniture upholstery can be a bit more difficult because much of the fabric used on furniture is not colorfast. However, with skunk smell on the furniture colorfastness is a secondary consideration to the smell. Before you attempt a furniture recovery project, test OdorXit® on the back of the piece to see what happens. A nice piece of furniture with water marks and no smell is not acceptable either.

Since the skunk odor on furniture is usually a result of a dog that was sprayed jumping up on the furniture before he was deodorized, there is really very little material on the furniture, and washing it will do very little to improve the odor situation. Just spray the contaminated area with OdorXit® (Mix 1 ounce of OdorXit® with 20 to 30 ounces of water) and allow it to dry slowly.

Multiple applications may be necessary to remove all of the odor, but it will work.
Skunk Odor Around The House  If you have had a skunk spray in your garage, under a porch or steps or even in the crawl space, OdorXit Concentrate can remove the odor there too. Small or closed areas can be treated with a deck or yard sprayer. If you’re trying to treat an area that is difficult to get to like under stairs or in a crawl space, use a hose end sprayer so that you don't have to try and crawl into the confined space.

A hose end sprayer (pictured above) is a special plastic nozzle that has a dispensing jar screwed on the bottom. The sprayer mixes the contents of the bottle with the water being sprayed out the nozzle. Some of the sprayers have a variable mixture rates while others (cheaper) do not. Either way works OK for OdorXit applications involving skunk odor. Put about 4 ounces of OdorXit Concentrate in the bottle and fill it half way with water. Spray it on the area where the odor is coming from until the dispenser bottle is empty. The odor will be gone in an hour or so.

Some times when a large amount (relatively speaking) is applied to a small area the OdorXit Odor is rather slow in leaving. The component of OdorXit that produces this smell is the one that neutralizes ammonia and if there is no ammonia to neutralize, it lingers for a while. It can be neutralized almost immediately by misting a 4 part water, 1 part ammonia solution on the area where the OdorXit was applied. Spray only enough ammonia to neutralize the OdorXit (which is normally very little)

Carpets

On most carpets, what appears to be a surface problem generally involves at least the carpet's nap and backing, nearly always the padding, and often the floor under the padding. The padding acts like a concentrator for the urine residue. This is because most padding is made of a composite sponge material that can hold a large volume of liquid. As the liquid slowly evaporates (though the carpet) and spreads into an ever-widening circle in the padding, the urine residue (mostly urea salt) deposits and accumulates in the padding. Repeated applications of urine result in more concentrated deposits and larger areas of residue. When the padding becomes saturated with liquid in an area, the liquid soaks into the flooring under the padding and allows the carpet above to stay wet for a much longer time, while it produces much more odor. This is why a urine contamination problem can go undetected for weeks or months and then all at once become a big problem.

Dog Urine Contamination

When you consider that a 30 pound dog can expel 1/2 cup of urine per incident, and one incident is rarely the case, the amount of diluted OdorXit needed could be 1/2 to 1 gallon for an area 2 feet in diameter. Unfortunately, dogs nearly always use the center of the room or a doorway. This makes accessing the padding more difficult. But remember that the OdorXit solution must come in direct contact with the odor producing sources in the carpet and flooring even after you remove the padding. Leaving the padding in place and treating just the carpet will often reduce the odor to a manageable level but will almost never eliminate all of the odor. Further, if the padding is wet (like it is most of the time) it will stay wet for at least weeks, and sometimes months, damaging both carpeting and flooring.

Cat Urine Contamination

When cats have contaminated a carpet, it is often along the wall and in the corners. This being the case, the carpet, padding and flooring are not the only elements involved. As an example, when wall-to-wall carpeting is involved, there is a wooden tack strip that is nailed to the floor and has tacks sticking up to hold the carpet in place. Urine will stain the wood and rust the tacks. The urine stains the bottom of the tack strip as well. Replace the contaminated tack strip with a new one or let your carpet installer do it for you.

Carpet Recovery Procedure

We recommend that you start your carpet recovery effort with a carpet-cleaning machine to apply OdorXit in combination with the carpet shampoo (2-3 ounces of OdorXit per gallon). There are many benefits to this method of application:

• The carpet gets cleaned,
• Much of whatever else was used previously to eliminate the odor is removed, and
• The wetting additive in the shampoo helps the OdorXit penetrate deeply into the carpet nap and backing.

Most upright carpet-cleaning machines will do a great job. We have used the Hoover Steam Vac home unit and it works very well, but it costs well over $200. We have not used the new DirtDevil carpet-cleaner or the Bissell carpet-cleaners, but they seems to have the right stuff. Renting a cleaning machine is a good alternative. Ask for the up-right units that have agitators or beater bars. If the up-right units are not available, the tank type will do, but not as well.
All carpet-cleaning machines will spray warm to hot solution of carpet shampoo and OdorXit onto (into) the carpet and then retrieve the excess solution and much of the dirt from the carpet. This is just what is needed for carpet contamination that has not gotten completely out of hand and ruined the carpet. The Hoover and Sears carpet-cleaning shampoos have surfactant additives that, in combination with the cleaning machine's agitator, help the OdorXit to penetrate much more deeply into the carpet than it would without the shampoo or the machine.

If the carpet seems to be clean but the urine odor persists, the odor is coming from the padding and flooring under the carpet or from spray/urine on the adjacent wall. Heavily contaminated carpet will almost always have to be pulled back and sprayed on the back.

Carpet padding is made of a foam material that is a haven for urine residue. Because padding is relatively inexpensive and easy to handle, we recommend that you cut out the contaminated padding and replace it with new after the odor problem is resolved.

Often, some or all the tack strip will need to be replaced because the urine on the tacks rust and weaken them very quickly. Additionally, the urine gets under the tack strip and travels a long way (sometimes several feet). OdorXit must get to this contaminate to remove all of the odor.

Spray the floor after washing it (Wood Flooring or Concrete Floors) and the back of the carpet and give the OdorXit overnight to work.

When there is urine contamination near the wall as in the tack strip situation above, it is very likely that the urine went under the wall. Spraying OdorXit directly under the base board and drywall will usually result in enough volume of OdorXit to get to the same area the urine went. Drilling small holes through the drywall and wall plate and then injecting OdorXit will sometimes be necessary.

When it appears that the odor is completely gone, spray a mist of plain water everywhere you had urine contamination and wait several minutes. If you smell no urine odor, you are finished with the odor elimination phase. Now you can tape and staple the new padding in place and reset or have the carpet reset on the tack strips.

Do not expect one of these household type carpet cleaners to restore badly soiled carpet to new condition. They are not capable of doing the same job that the professional machines can do, but are excellent for applying OdorXit and getting the majority of the dirt. If the carpet is odor free and still not clean enough, call in the pros and have it cleaned again. The professional cleaning will not effect the action of the OdorXit because it has already done all it needs to do to eliminate the odor-causing contaminants in the carpet.

One last note: after cleaning you're carpets, all or most of the dirt and stain repellent has been removed. This will cause your carpet to get dirty much faster than before. Re-applying Scotchguard or similar replacement can restore the dirt repellent action to nearly new levels.

Wood Flooring

An important point that can not be made too strongly is that pet urine spots have generally been left to soak in for hours or days, if not weeks. Unfinished flooring under carpet padding is capable of absorbing an enormous amount of liquid (urine) too. Even finished hardwood flooring has cracks between the boards that harbor lots of liquid and it will wick liquid a long way from the initial spot. Washing the floor with Spic N Span or TSP before applying OdorXit will significantly reduce the amount of OdorXit necessary to eliminate the odor. In both cases, OdorXit solution must be applied so that it has a chance to soak into the unfinished flooring and into the cracks between the boards of plank flooring. Hardwood floor applications should take 10 to 15 minutes to dry, particle board should take 20 to 30 minutes.

OdorXit concentrate should be mixed 4 ounces per gallon for flooring. The concentration is less important than getting the solution in contact with all of the wet and/or dried urine in and on the floor. On resistant areas, adding 1-2 ounces of Sears or Hoover carpet cleaner per ounce of OdorXit will improve OdorXit's performance on plywood, particle board and OSB. Warning! Using carpet cleaner on hardwood may warp or cup the boards.

The most effective ways to apply OdorXit to flooring is to use a new 1/2 to 3 gallon tank sprayer with a fan type nozzle. Sears, R. L. Flo-Master and Lesco sell several really good ones. See Applying OdorXit for more information. NOTE: Use a new sprayer! OdorXit does not eliminate the smell of most yard chemicals.

OdorXit cannot recover urine-rotted wood. When this condition is found, the wood will look black and sticky. Remove the worst of the wood and clean and use OdorXit on the wood under the removed wood. If rafters or joists have soft spots, scrape out soft wood, spray with OdorXit. When the odor is gone apply floor-leveling compound to fill the area.  Replace the flooring with new and move on. 

Concrete Floors

Though concrete seems to be a hard, dense material, it is actually quite porous. This being the case, concrete can absorb large amounts of pet urine and fecal matter that cannot be washed away. Eliminating these odors is quite simple with OdorXit, if the floor has not been sealed or painted. Sealing and painting seals out OdorXit, but will not seal in the gas being produced.

In preparation for treating bare concrete with OdorXit, clean 3 by 3 foot areas with Spic & Span or TSP (Tri-Sodium Phosphate). Just wet the area and keep it wet for 1 or 2 minutes (light scrubbing may help but is not necessary). Rinse with clean water several times. Do not flood large areas because some of the urine residue is water-soluble, flooding the area will make the problem larger than it already is.

Using a new deck sprayer with a fan spray nozzle will make your project go much smoother and the application of OdorXit much easier. Concrete responds much faster and effectively when Sears or Hoover carpet shampoo (those that contain surfactants) is added to the OdorXit/water solution. 1 or 2 parts carpet shampoo to 1 part OdorXit to 20 to 30 water works really well. The surfactants make the solution soak into the concrete much faster and deeper. Put enough on that the concrete stays wet (not damp) for at least 10 minutes after spraying. You may notice small bubbles in the areas contaminated most heavily. This is normal and the area should be noted so that it can be re-treated the next day. Finally, when using carpet shampoo with OdorXit, make up only what you can use immediately because the shampoo will slowly disable the OdorXit.

If you have urine contaminated tile or carpet glued to a concrete, it is almost always necessary to remove the tile or carpet, rubber backing and the glue to permanently eliminate all of the odor. Multiple applications of urine will slowly penetrate the concrete under the tile, and the rubber backing and glue combination of the carpet. OdorXit has to come in contact with all the urine soaked into the concrete, glue and rubber backing. Multiple heavy applications of OdorXit solution will often eliminate the odor if the contamination is not too extreme. For the extreme cases, there are glue release and removal compounds available to make removing the tile or carpet and backing a bit easier, but it is still going to be a nasty job. One additional point, when removing glue with a solvent, a thin film of glue is left on the floor. This film acts like a water seal that keeps the OdorXit from penetrating as well as it should to get to the urine in the concrete. Using the TSP approach above may help. Persistent problems may have to be etched with phosphoric or hydrochloric acid to open the surface of the concrete. If you think you have this problem, Call our help line for help!

Feces Odors

Removing pet feces from flooring and carpeting is much easier than urine because it is not a liquid and it does not produce the urea salts. Removing the bulk of the material and washing the area with detergent will remove most of the odor and stain. If the stain is not completely removed with normal detergent, a more aggressive approach is indicated. As an example, carpet cleaners will remove the rest of the stain with a little scrubbing. Finally, spray the area thoroughly with OdorXit Concentrate mixed 1 ounce per quart (32 ounces) of water and allow the area to dry naturally. In an hour or so, the smell will be removed forever.

If you are dealing with an overflowed toilet, the problem is a bit more difficult because of the large amount of water added to the urine and feces. If the problem occurred in rental property, it is likely that hours or days have passed since the overflow occurred. After the plumbing is cleared, and the bulk of the overflow has been mopped up, spray the area thoroughly with OdorXit Concentrate mixed 1 ounce per quart of water and allow the area to dry naturally. Be sure that areas that are hard to clean, like cracks in the tile, the area under the vanity and heating vents in the floor, get thoroughly wetted with OdorXit solution.

Bathrooms

Using OdorXit to eliminate urine, mold and mildew odors in bathrooms is a common and effective application. The question is, where to use it and how strong should the solution be? It depends on what the area around the toilet is made of and covered with.

If the area around the toilet is all ceramic tile, wash the area with spray cleaner and spray with OdorXit solution 1 ounce per quart of water. Make sure that all the grout is wetted, as well as the tile and the toilet and under the tank. If the walls are covered with wallpaper, the problem will be a bit more difficult. The paste that holds the wallpaper on the wall is water-soluble. This means that the water in the diluted OdorXit will tend to cause the glue holding the wallpaper to release. Replacing the wallpaper may be necessary in some cases simply because the urine has soaked through the paper into the wallboard. If this is the case, remove the wallpaper and residual paste, then spray the wallboard with OdorXit to eradicate the odor source in the wall and allow it to dry completely. Replace the wallpaper with a water-resistant variety, if possible.

If the wall covering is Marilite (plastic coated masonite), make sure the seams and any breaks or cracks in the surface are flooded with diluted OdorXit. If the floor is carpeted, refer to the Carpets section.
OdorXit concentration for this application should be 1 ounce per quart of water.

Mold and Mildew

Removing mold and mildew odors from walls and other surfaces with OdorXit involves simply spraying a fine mist on the contaminated areas with a 1 ounce per quart (32 ounces) solution of OdorXit and water. When spraying painted walls, care should be taken to avoid runs that can cause discoloration. The discoloration is not from the OdorXit, but rather from accumulated dust and dirt on the wall.

Removing Odors from Skin

Eliminating fish, blood, meat and other organic odors from skin is a simple and safe procedure. Wash the affected skin with warm water and mild hand soap, rinse, dry and spray with OdorXit solution mixed 1 ounce per quart (32 ounces).  Rub the OdorXit lightly until dry.  The odor will be gone and the OdorXit odor can be washed off if you are so inclined.

Machine-Washable Fabric & Clothing

Removing organic odors including urine, vomit, spoiled food, mold and mildew odor from machine-washable fabric involves adding 1/2 to 1 ounce of OdorXit to the washing machine at the beginning of the wash cycle. Allow the first wash cycle to complete but delay the first spin cycle for 30 to 60 minutes (This can easily be accomplished with most top loading washers by leaving the lid open). After the wash/soak time, let the machine finish its normal cycles. In some cases, it may be necessary to run the final rinse twice.

Furniture with Fabric Upholstery

Organic odors in furniture upholstery can be a bit more difficult because much of the fabric used on furniture is not colorfast. Before you attempt a furniture recovery project, test OdorXit on the back of the piece to see what happens. A nice piece of furniture with watermarks and no smell is not acceptable either.

If the furniture fabric is colorfast, remove the bulk of surface material. Wash the stain with a combination of water, mild upholstery cleaner and OdorXit (Mix 1 ounce of OdorXit with each quart of upholstery solution). If you have a wand vacuum cleaner attachment, vacuum the area to extract the residual cleaner, water and contaminant. Then spray on another application of just OdorXit mixed 1 ounce per quart (32 ounces) of water and allow it to dry.

If the contamination has soaked deeply into the padding it will be necessary to treat the padding as a separate item. Sometimes this can be accomplished without removing the upholstery cover, but in many cases, removing the cushion cover will be a better choice because the volume of OdorXit needed to get to all the contamination will be much larger than is needed for just the covering. In this case and especially with foam padding, you may find that it is cheaper and easier to replace the padding.

Leather & Leather Furniture Upholstery

Organic odors in leather products of all kinds are a challenge for a number of reasons. Not the least of which is the thickness of the leather. In the case of urine contamination, leather can harbor a large amount of urine residue, which means that normal cleaning methods do not work. Because OdorXit is a contact chemistry product and is intended to neutralize the urine residue rather than remove it, OdorXit is uniquely qualified to work on contaminated leather.

There is one issue regarding treating contaminated leather that must not be ignored. Simply getting it wet can radically alter the texture and flexibility of leather. Treating it with detergent, urine, other odor control products and even OdorXit, can do the same. We at OdorXit have gotten feedback from customers and taxidermists who have treated hide rugs successfully with OdorXit. This is a long way from treating glove leather.

What we have found that works best is to have the leather cleaned professionally to remove the bulk of urine, and whatever else you have applied to the contaminated area. Do not have the leather treated with softeners at this point. Spray the area front and back (if you can get to the back) with OdorXit mixed 1 ounce per quart (32 ounces) of water, and let it dry slowly. You may have to treat the area more than once over a period of several days to neutralize the urine residue. When you think the odor is gone, spray the area with water and sniff. When the odor is completely removed, the water will generate no odor at all.

With the odor removed, have the area treated with leather softener to restore the original texture and flexibility.
There are products that you can put on leather that will permanently alter the texture, flexibility and finish of leather. OdorXit is not one of them.

Floods and Sewer Backups

Floods and Sewer Backups, aside from being a health hazard, often leave a large amount of odor-causing material behind. These odor-causing agents soak into walls and drywall, wood, and even concrete. Since the odor-causing agents almost always contain human or animal waste products, OdorXit is uniquely suited to eliminate the odors. The difficulty in dealing with these problems compared to simple basement mold and mildew is that the contamination is everywhere the water was, and the amount of contamination left behind can be massive.

The first step is to remove as much of the contamination (sludge) as possible by whatever means is available as soon as possible to prevent it from drying on surfaces. Electric or gas driven pumps will remove the gross amount of water, or just wait for the water to go back down the drain, but this will not remove the sludge without intervention. Intervention includes hosing down the entire area while the area is draining and wet. If at all possible, do not let the sludge dry. Once sludge dries, it is like cement and very hard to remove. Additionally, the sludge contains massive amounts of odor-causing material and though OdorXit will eliminate these odors, it is much more effective and cost effective to wash as much away as possible before applying OdorXit.

Second, as soon as the water and sludge have been removed and before the area has dried, hose and/or scrub the affected area with low suds detergent. Rinse and sweep or squeegee the area nearly dry.

Third, spray the entire affected area with a low concentration batch of OdorXit. Two ounces of OdorXit per gallon of water should be sufficient for the first application. Don't forget the inside of the furnace, the bottom of the steps and shelves ...everywhere!

After the affected area has dried and aired out for several hours, check the area for odors and treat any persistent areas with the normal concentration of OdorXit mixed 1 ounce per quart (32 ounces) of water.

Garbage and Spoiled Food

Garbage, spoiled food and rotting meat odors can all be eliminated with OdorXit. The Odor inside a turned-off refrigerator or under a sink or counter where food has been allowed to spoil can be treated easily. First, remove the bulk of the spoiled food by sweeping and/or washing the area with detergent and water. Then, spray the area thoroughly with the normal concentration of OdorXit mixed 1 ounce per quart (32 ounces) of water.

Spraying the inside of a garbage can will reduce but often will not eliminate the odor unless the can has been rinsed out prior to spraying because the small chunks of material left in the can do not get soaked with OdorXit. As the material continues to decompose, additional odor is produced.

The odor of sour milk in fabric like car seats or carpeting can be eliminated by washing the affected surface area with detergent and water, and then soaking the fabric and padding with low concentration OdorXit (1 or 2 ounces of OdorXit in 1 gallon of water). In the case of foam padded seats, several treatments from both top and bottom may be necessary. This is because the foam has a tendency to hide material in nearly inaccessible areas. Unless you really soak the foam, the odor often will return (though substantially reduced) when the car is left in the sun for several hours with the windows closed.

Refrigerator Odors

Refrigerators, freezers, and coolers that have been and left closed without cooling have a truly unique odor that is normally very difficult to eliminate. However, with a little work and OdorXit you can recover even the worst smelling ones. You may want to take the unit outside to do this first step so that you can use a garden hose to rinse out the really bad stuff. Completely defrost the unit. Remove the spoiled food by scrubbing the entire interior with detergent and hot water. On refrigerators that have a freezer that is not built into the walls of the unit, use a long thin brush to get between the freezer and the wall. Rinse completely and wipe dry.

Refrigerators need to be thoroughly cleaned before spraying with OdorXit. Even the freezer should be completely defrosted, washed and sprayed inside and out. Seams on the interior and gaskets need special attention while washing and spraying because they both are areas where spilled foods hide, decompose and produce bad odors. An hour spent cleaning and spraying OdorXit on a really smelly refrigerator can restore a $300 unit to service instead of replacing it with another.

Spray the entire interior with OdorXit mixed 1 ounce per quart (32 ounces) of water. Refrigerator freezers should also be sprayed inside and out. Shelves, seams on the interior and gaskets need special attention while washing and spraying because they all are areas where spilled foods hide, decompose and produce bad odors.

Next, in the back of many refrigerators, there is either a hole in the interior where 2 tubes emerge from the insulation or there is a small passage that connects the freezer section to the refrigerator section of the unit. Spray this area thoroughly because it is so difficult to wash! If your freezer has large vents along the bottom in the front you may need to remove the plastic floor of the freezer in order to clean the food and goop from the cooling coils that hide within.
Finally, close the doors when you are finished spraying the entire interior of the unit. The next day, briefly air out the unit to purge the residual OdorXit smell and your refrigerator, freezer or cooler will be ready for use, without the nasty smell!

An hour spent cleaning and spraying OdorXit on a really smelly refrigerator can restore a $300 unit to service instead of replacing it with another.

Vomit Odors

Removing vomit odors requires a 2-step process. The first step is to remove the bulk of the vomit material and thoroughly wash the area with a detergent that is appropriate for the material contaminated. Be diligent in removing as much of the dissolved vomit and detergent/water solution as possible (a Wet/Dry vacuum works great). Remember that vomit contains a significant amount of stomach acid, which will destroy many materials if left to do its damage. If the source is a small pet, the cleaning step can be as easy as blotting up the vomit with a paper towel, for larger animals and humans, the cleaning step must be more aggressive.

The second step is to completely wet the area with OdorXit mixed 1 ounce per 32 ounces of water and leave it to dry (slowly). OdorXit alters the remaining odor-causing compounds so that they will not produce odors.

Auto carpet is often more difficult because it is thin and has a thick absorbent padding (sound-deadening material). Additionally, cars are exposed to very high temperatures when left in the sun. The high temperatures will make what would have been a small problem in a house carpet, is much larger problem in a car. However, the solution is the same, though it may be necessary to remove both the carpet and padding from the car to wash and rinse it completely. Rinsing with a garden hose and nozzle is very effective. After thoroughly rinsing, allow both the carpet and padding to dry. Apply (by spraying or pouring) diluted OdorXit mixed 1 ounce per quart (32 ounces) of water on the affected areas (the ones that still smell bad) and allow to dry slowly (not in the sun). When the OdorXit is dry, the odor will normally be gone forever. If it is not, which is occasionally the case for vomit that has been left for several days, apply a second dose of OdorXit solution. More that two applications is almost never required.

Treating Kennel and Cattery Odors

Kennels and Catteries, even when cleaned and disinfected on a frequent and regular basis, are
subject to odors that do not respond well to over-the-counter odor control products. Even industrial strength odor control products often have difficulty with urine odors and frequently contain chemicals that are dangerous to both pets and humans.

As you already know, bleach does not get rid of urine odors. Even the strongest and cheapest detergent "TSP" does not get rid of the entire urine odor.

We at OdorXit would like to offer a solution that is both safe and effective. Instead of trying to digest the odor-causing urine byproducts, OdorXit neutralizes these materials, rendering them incapable of producing the ammonia and mercaptan gasses that are so objectionable.

Concrete Floor Kennels

When treating bare concrete contaminated with urine and feces, wash the area first with nearly any low suds detergent and rinse with water. Then spray the area with OdorXit diluted 1 ounce of OdorXit to 32 ounces of water.
In cases where the contamination has soaked deeply into the concrete, we have found that adding 1 or 2 ounce of Hoover or Sears carpet cleaning shampoo (those that contain surfactants) for each ounce of OdorXit concentrate in solution increases the penetration ability of the solution.

When using any product containing surfactants of any kind, be careful not to get them on your skin as they are capable of soaking right through your skin. That's why they are mentioned prominently on the warning labels. Finally, when using carpet shampoo with OdorXit, make up only what you can use immediately because the shampoo will disable the OdorXit in about 48 hours. Additionally, dogs and cats should not be exposed the surfactants. If you do use products containing surfactants to get the odors under control, be sure to wash and flush the area after the odors have been eliminated to get rid of the residuals.

Cattery Cages

Cattery cages, show cages and play pens are areas that often suffer from strong odors including urine, feces, vomit, hair-balls and hormonal spray. By far, male hormonal spray is the most pungent and difficult to eliminate. OdorXit is fully capable of eliminating all of these odors, generally with only one application of OdorXit diluted 1 ounce to 32 ounces of water.

Spraying the bottom of litter pans before adding litter will eliminate the existing urine odor and prevent new odor from developing for days.

It is prudent to not let pets, especially small breeds and the very young, lay in cleaning, disinfectant and odor elimination products of any kind. Even though the warning classification for OdorXit is extremely mild compared to cleaning and disinfectant products commonly used in kennels and catteries, do not let pets lay in OdorXit solution and most certainly not lay in solution containing surfactants.

Tidbits of Information

This section of the OdorXit web site is dedicated to making application information available that is not easily categorized onto any other section of the site. If you have experiences with OdorXit that you would like to share with others on the web, this is were it will show up. Check this page often for new information.

Using OdorXit with carpet shampoo: Mixing some carpet shampoos like Sears and Hoover (those that contain surfactants) with OdorXit will improve the penetration of OdorXit into porous material like wood, concrete and other building materials by a significant margin. Adding 2 or 6 ounces per gallon is usually quite enough to get the desired results, BUT... you need to use all of the mixture within 12 hours. Carpet shampoos break down OdorXit and make it ineffective.

Treating extreme contamination

We at OdorXit, through our help-line and on our own rental properties, have come across situations of contamination that were so bad that extreme measures had to be employed. In a recent case, a room with only pine tongue and grove boards for flooring was severely contaminated with cat urine over many years. Washing the flooring with TSP several times did not stop the urine salts from appearing on the surface after the boards dried. Further, applying several doses of OdorXit did reduce, but did not eliminate, the odor in the room. Taking the step-by-step method of solving a problem, the owner removed several of the boards that were stained the worst only to find that the rafters and ceiling below were also badly contaminated by urine that ran between the boards. In a case like this, it is clear that saving the flooring boards is probably not a cost-effective solution, but saving the rafters and ceiling material and replacing some or all of the contaminated flooring would clearly be cost-effective and necessary.

Another example of extreme contamination involved one of our apartments. In this particular case, the carpeting and padding were old and not worth saving for other reasons. The apartment had been vacant for repairs for nearly 2 months before we removed the carpeting in question. The back of the carpet in some heavily contaminated areas was still wet with urine! The padding was unusual in that it was foam padding with a plastic membrane with small breather holes on the carpet side. It appears that this plastic trapped most but not all of the urine between the top of the padding and the back of the carpet. We could have dumped a quart of OdorXit solution directly on the area and not gotten all the smell out. Additionally, the carpet backing in these wet areas was so weak that when it was removed the backing split easily. The flooring under the wet areas was treated with OdorXit. The next day, the urine smell was gone.

Odors OdorXit Cannot Eliminate

Though OdorXit is the most effective organic odor eliminator ever formulated and it can and does eliminate many organic odors, there are odors that even OdorXit can not and will not eliminate. They include:

• Tobacco smoke odors
• Fire and smoke odors
• Wet dog smell

Applying OdorXit Concentrate

Using the proper applicator is an important part of getting the best results from OdorXit. For very small areas (one time pet accident), a trigger pump sprayer is acceptable. Larger areas you should consider a garden type tank sprayer.

Sears, Lesco, and RL Flo-Master all have several sprayers that we have used and liked. Plastic pump sprayers work better than metal ones because they are cheaper and don't chip doorframes and cabinetry when bumped. All of the mentioned manufactures normally provide cone spray nozzles on their units. We prefer the fan spray type because they work better. Nozzles that provide flow rates of .5 to .25 gallons per minute work best. Ask your supplier to install them for you so you know that they will fit your spray wand.

A few words on flow rates. Spraying the walls and ceiling with a high flow nozzle will result in runs and streaks caused by too much liquid having been applied. The low and very low flow rate nozzles, (less than .1 gallon per minute) aside from spraying a smaller amount of material per minute, also cause the spray to be much finer (the droplets are very much smaller). With the addition of carpet cleaning shampoo (2 or 3 ounces per gallon) to the mixture of water and OdorXit, these smaller droplets can and do completely cover an area without causing runs and drips, avoiding lasting stains on the walls. The higher flow rate nozzles are required for treating walls of concrete, concrete blocks, and most wood flooring. Spraying carpets with a sprayer, except for superficial contamination, is not nearly as effective as using a carpet-cleaning machine.  Remember, if OdorXit does not come in direct contact with all of the odor-causing material, the odor will not go away.

For deep and heavy pile or Berber carpet with deep stains, we recommend that you use a carpet-cleaning machine. We have used the Hoover Steam & Vac home unit and it works very well, and costs over $200. We have not used the new Bissell or Dirt Devil carpet cleaners, but they seems to have the right stuff too. Renting one is a good alternative. The carpet cleaners spray a lot of warm to hot solution of carpet shampoo and OdorXit onto (into) the carpet and then retrieve the excess solution and dirt from the carpet. This is just what is needed for carpet contamination that has not gotten completely out of hand and not ruined the carpet. The Hoover and Sears carpet-cleaning shampoos in combination with the cleaning machines agitator helps the OdorXit to penetrate more deeply into the carpet than it would on its own.

Do not expect one of these household-type carpet cleaners to restore badly soiled carpet to new condition. They are not capable of doing the job that the professional machines can do, but home units are excellent for applying OdorXit and getting the majority of the dirt. If the carpet is odor free and still not clean enough, call in the pros and have it cleaned again. The second cleaning will not effect the action of the OdorXit, after 24 hours, because it has already done all that its going to do to the carpet.

If the carpet seems to be odor free but the urine odor persists, the odor is probably coming from the padding and/or flooring under the carpet. See the Carpets and Flooring section for additional information.

One last note: after cleaning your carpets, all or most of the dirt repellent has been removed. This will cause your carpet to get dirty much faster than before. Re-applying Scotchguard will restore the dirt repellent action to nearly new levels.

Residential Testimonials

• Mr. Don Beck from Philadelphia's DIG (Diversified Investors Group). He is a nationally recognized real estate speaker and OdorXit user. This is what he said about OdorXit: "While cleaning up a vacant apartment, I discovered the tenants had kept their dog closed up in one room while they were gone. Two corners smelled the worst! I sprayed OdorXit on the whole carpet. I came back 2 days later. The smell was better but not completely gone. I vacuumed, and sprayed OdorXit one more time. The next time I came back, the odor was completely gone. It was easy and inexpensive and I was able to re-rent the apartment right away." Don Beck, Landlording Expert. 1999
• "To Whom It May Concern; we heartily endorse the use of OdorXit over any similar product. We have tried several different brands in the past with mixed results. OdorXit performs its magic with odors and then goes away. OdorXit is ideal for rental homes because it can handle different odors and it does not become part of the problem. Several brands may deal with odors but then leave behind an aroma that is almost as unpleasant as the original odor you were dealing with in the first place. Anything that does not leave a clean or no smell is not what works in rental homes. People associate odors with problems and with OdorXit there is no problem. Louis D. Brown, Trust Associates (Nationally known Real Estate Investment Speaker)
• "I just wanted to take this opportunity to Thank You for introducing me to this great product. I had a sick cat that somehow made its way into my completely renovated home on 62 Foster St., Meriden. The cat sprayed its urine all over the living room. My cleaning crew tried everything to remove the smell from the house. Nothing worked until I had them try your OdorXit Concentrate. The smell was eliminated immediately and the buyer was willing to continue with the transaction. I truly believe that the deal would not have closed if I would not have been able to rid the home of that horrible cat urine smell. Sincerely, Robyn Thompson , Home Buyers LLC" and nationally know investment and rehab speaker. July,2001
• January, 2001, I wanted to send this note to tell you that OdorXit is wonderful. I manage two, apartment buildings for single, formerly homeless folks. Unfortunately this group is not the most attentive to detail with home cleaning and maintenance.
• Our primary use of OdorXit is to clean refrigerators. We have had dozens of refrigerators that had to be thrown out before I found OdorXit. We have had units which had been turned off and had rotted meat and eggs in them. OdorXit took the odor out, saving me $400 per unit. We have also used OdorXit to neutralize urine in the floor tiles around toilets and to neutralize and clean up body fluids when a tenant expired and was not found for several days. Please feel free to use this letter and to use me as a reference. I heard about OdorXit when I was in Pennsylvania at a Real Estate training course and have passed the word along to others. Let's not keep a great thing a secret! Sincerely, Lois Ann Russell, Senior Property Manager New Haven CT.

OdorXit Concentrate for Taxidermy

OdorXit is a very special mixture of water-soluble organic salts and oils that are designed to eliminate organic odors found in taxidermy at their source, forever. To do this, OdorXit, mixed with water, must come in direct contact with the material that is causing the odor. This might be the oil excreted from scent glands, or the oil encountered when skinning-out a fish, or any number of other sources OdorXit really does its job well!

Because OdorXit is only water-soluble organic salts and oils, it is safe to use on any hide and does not require rinsing or special treatment after use. Because there is no perfume or covering scent there will be no lingering odor of any kind.

Eliminating Odors in Un-Mounted Hides

When you soak a hide in preparation for mounting, add some OdorXit to the water, (2 to 4 ounces per gallon of water) and let it work. When you are ready to mount the hide, the odor will be gone, and in a few hours, the OdorXit smell will be gone too.

Eliminating Odors in Mounted Hides

Hides that are already mounted can be sprayed with OdorXit solution to eliminate odors. Mix OdorXit 2 ounces per quart of water and spray it on the hide, hair and horns to wet the area that has the problem. Brush it into the hair and hide and let it dry slowly (do not us a fan).

Depending on the animal and the amount of odor, you may have to treat the mount more than once to eliminate the odor entirely. When the odor is deep in the hide, it takes a step by step approach with progressive levels of aggressive treatment to eliminate the odor. OdorXit must come in contact with the odor-causing agent in the hide to make it stop stinking. Repeated superficial treatments will not solve this problem.

OdorXit eliminates most glandular secretion odors. There are a few that do not respond and as they become apparent, we will publish the list so that you don't waste your time and OdorXit on these problems.

Eliminating Pet Urine Odors in Hide Rugs

OdorXit was originally formulated to eliminate pet odors in carpeting, flooring and other places where dogs and cats urinate. Eliminating these odors in a Bear Rug is much the same as the procedure required for any other odor in a hide.
The affected area must be thoroughly wetted with OdorXit solution and left to work for several hours. Because urine has a tendency to soak deeply into porous materials, wetting both sides of the hide will improve the penetration and reduce the amount of OdorXit required to do the job.

One additional note regarding urine contamination of a hide, urine odor is produced when the urine residue is damp or wet. Since OdorXit solution is mostly water, the urine smell will get worse for a short time when first applied. This is absolutely normal and should be expected. By the same token, just wetting the contaminated area will produce the odor. After you have completed your treatment of urine-contaminated hide with OdorXit and the odor appears to be completely eliminated, it is a good idea to spray a little water on the contaminated area to test for more odors. Its better that you find it before you return the hide to the owner than after.

Finally, you may want to offer some OdorXit to the customer to treat the flooring where the hide was laying when it was contaminated. Urine residue just does not go away by itself.